Privoz Market


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  Privoz Market
::: map
::: ?How to get here:
ТРАНСПОРТ: - almost any public transport passes by Privoz or railway station (which is close to Privoz)
What to see: - Fruit Passage
- Aunt Sonia monument
- do not forget not only to look but also taste what you see

Privoz - there are so many things merged in this word for the heart of an Odessit... The fish market is full of bullheads, and sprat, and shrimps, just jumped out of the sea and ready to jump into your meal, and the very red tomatoes with the most "blue" eggplants from the burly goody-goodies, and extremely mellow melons offered by tanned sellers. And most importantly - lively south enunciation, paradoxical dialogues and unassailable local colour, admired by many professional humorists for the last hundred years. Here, every tradeswoman or meat-chopping man has something to say about Odessa. It only remains to walk and write down, and well, watch for yout wallet, forget about daydreaming, like a gang from a tram.

The most amusing theater is in the market. Irritating abundance. There is everyhing, and abundance ot it. But the most of all is shouting, swearing, curses. At the worldwide competition of these kinds of "sport" Odessa tradeswomen would occupy the first place.

- Dames, look, what a lady's coming. Beauty. Her husband must be happy with 'er. Cutie pie, take my fish. Look at this fab mackerel. It's absolutely bang-on! Belle, take it.
- How much is your mackerel?
- Ten-copeck for a dozen.
- Too much.
- If it's costly, then take off your dress, rush into the sea and fish yourself - it'll be free for you then!

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This is how looked Privoz a century ago, from the memories of Utesov. And even Michal Mikhalych Zhvanetsky, who lived one block from the Privoz, admitted that "he had used to spin around saleswomen and listen to their jargon". No, there's something about these people ...

"If there is paradise on earth for comic-writers, it's Odessa's Privoz. This is a real Klondike, a goldmine of fun. There is no need to think up anything, just walk along the mall and write down what you hear. Both after the buyers, and the sellers, since everyone here is equally sharp-witted. Here no one will utter a word without a reason. Even the simplest question will bring you an unusual answer:
- Taras Petrovich, how are things?
- I live like a moth: I have eaten away one suit already, and set to another one. And you, Grigoriy Matveich, how are you keeping?
- How am I? I am like a watermelon: My paunch is growing, and tail is drying (A. Khait)

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Вокзал ||| Railway station Зоопарк ||| Zoo
Privoz sprang up in 1827, and before that there were Greek Market and Old Bazaar (now Greek and Starobazarnaya Squares). They say, Pushkin strolled along the Greek market with his heavy cane; apparently listening, too. Alexandrovskiy Avenue, located between these two centers of market life, was to become a solid trade showcase, with stalls and shops on both sides - like Odessa Champs Elysees. However, eventually, other markets began to assume more importance, they were New Market and Privoz.

From the Old Bazaar to this place, which was the city outskirts of that time, were stretching the shopping mall rows, with all sorts of goods sold (the stuff was brought there on carts and wagons) - from where comes the name of Privoz (in Russian, "privoz" means "bringing"). By the end of the 19th century, on the Privoz square there appeared low wooden shopping rows and various tents, booths and awnings. In the blocks next to Privoz, on Rybnaya (Fish) street and Schepny row, there were stores, hash houses, taverns, inns and "cheapies" - cellar flophouses. The famous Fruit Passage, facing Preobrazhenskaya street, was built in 1913 - four tow-storey buildings connected by arches with wrought iron gates. Now it has the status of a heritage asset.

In recent years, Privoz was reconstructed, there appear new trading-office skyscrapers, and in the nearby sections tower-blocks grow as well. Among recent attractions there appeared a monument to Aunt Sonia (aka Madame Storozhenko) - right between the trading stalls, with the obligatory gobies and cat with her. The author of the monument has declared that he has embodied the best traits of Odessa women, among which, obviously, there is also a principle of "More of me to love".

It is often said that Odessa is not the same, and that after all those redevelopments and repairs Privoz has lost its true color. But here, for example, in 2011, a film-director Nikita Mikhalkov comes to Odessa film festival, calls at Privoz and expresses a feeling of as though he again watches the film "Liquidation". The same well-known dialect, the same sharp uninvented dialogues, nothing has changed. Farmers sell, Odessa housewaves "make market", both sides tease each other good-naturedly - they all are the heroes of unfilmed movies "for" Odessa. Some things just never change, no matter how some eggheads show off.

Near Privoz there are located the Zoo and the bus station.
Александр Москаленко
alexandr_moskalenko@ukr.net
   
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